[Tobisho] Pruners B-type 200mm (Red and Yellow taped handle) [TBS010401V]

This product is the Type B model fitted with red-and-yellow vinyl tape; there are no differences in performance regarding other aspects.

Cut where you point.

About the B-type

The B-type is one of the oldest pruning shear forms still in production in Yamagata. In the 1890s, a forge called Mogamigawa-ya produced a full-body forged pruning shear — what we now call the B-type. The A-type followed in roughly the same era, though the precise order is oral tradition rather than documented record. What is certain is that both forms have been carried forward without fundamental change for over a century.

What defines the B-type is its geometry. The cutting edge, the pivot, and the center of the handle fall on nearly the same line. Hold it at your side and reach toward a branch — the shear follows the line of your arm. From elbow to cut, one straight line. Cut where you point.

The B-type is full-body forged: handle and blade from a single piece of steel. This is not a special feature — it is how Tobisho makes almost everything. What it means is that nothing is bonded, nothing is joined. The shear is one continuous piece of worked metal.

Tobisho sits in the direct lineage of the B-type. The third-generation master, Yasuhito Tobitsuka, was drawn to it for a simple reason: it cuts cleanly, and it cuts where you intend. For a shear used in precise, repetitive work, that directness is everything.

About this product

The B-type 200mm is the standard-size model: 200mm, approximately 230g, right-handed. No left-hand version exists. Steel: Premium Blade Steel, full-body forged. The specific grade is not disclosed by Tobisho — a deliberate choice that reflects their confidence in the result over the specification.

Within the B-type lineup, the 180mm sits one size smaller. This product is the black-finish version; a red and yellow taped version is also available.

Among Tobisho's pruning shears, the B-type sits at a more accessible price point than the SR series or the A-type. The geometry is different, the lineage is different, the feel is different — but the standards of heat treatment, blade finishing, and hand-adjusted pivot are identical. The B-type is not the budget option. It is the option that more people can reach.

Used by professional gardeners, orchardists, vineyard workers, arborists, and serious enthusiasts worldwide.

Maintenance

How do I keep the blade in condition?
Wipe off resin after every use, ideally. Resin buildup gradually forces the blade trajectory outward — the two cutting edges stop meeting cleanly, and the pivot bolt begins to wear along that same outward path, compounding the problem. If wiping after every use isn't practical, clean the blades regularly. Carrying a small cloth and blade cleaner means you can do it on a break.

How do I lubricate the pivot?
Ideally, remove the bolt periodically and pack grease inside — grease holds longer than oil. That said, this requires skill and confidence to do correctly. A practical alternative: one drop of oil on the pivot once a month. It's not the full solution, but it keeps things running smoothly.

Can the shear get wet?
Avoid it where possible, and never leave the shear wet. After working in rain or morning dew, wipe it dry thoroughly. The pivot area retains moisture longest — use a blower or compressed air if you have one. Regular oiling helps here too: a well-oiled blade sheds water rather than holding it.

What if I drop it?
It depends on how and where it lands. A handle-first drop can bend the handle, affecting feel and the locking mechanism. A blade-first drop risks chipping. As a general rule: the sharper the blade, the harder and more brittle the steel, and the thinner the edge. Handle forged Japanese blades accordingly.

Can I sharpen it myself?
Yes — if you understand the blade geometry and have the skill. Sharpening scissors is significantly harder than sharpening knives: you are managing the contact between two blades, and as you sharpen, the blade face recedes, which can cause the edges to lose contact. If you are confident, sharpen only the face of each blade — never the inner flat side. When the blades stop meeting cleanly despite sharpening, that is the point to send it back to the maker. If you are not confident, leave it to a professional. A blade sharpened incorrectly is harder to recover than a dull one. That said: when you reach the point where you can sharpen your own tools, your relationship with them changes entirely.

What if I force it through a branch that's too thick?
Don't. Twisting or levering the shear to force a cut transfers lateral stress directly to the blade — chipping, blade separation, handle damage. Pruning shears, regardless of maker, are not designed for branches thicker than a little finger. That is what a saw is for. The boundary is the thickness of a little finger. Remember it.

About Tobisho

Tobisho has been forging blades in Yamagata since 1803 — ten generations of blacksmiths, four of them dedicated to pruning shears.

Syojiro Tobitsuka, the seventh-generation bladesmith in his family line, founded Tobisho as a pruning shear forge — making him the first of four generations dedicated to shears. Syojiro's shears served both the silkworm farmers already working the region and the orchardists who followed as Yamagata became one of Japan's great fruit-growing prefectures. The tools had to work. His name is still stamped on every Karikomi Shear Tobisho makes.

Generation by generation, the shears got better. What Tobisho is known for today — their heat treatment, their distinctive surface finish — is accumulated experience, made visible.

The late master Yasuhito Tobitsuka — third generation — developed the SR, the Hiryu, and the Asuka. Daiki Tobitsuka, the fourth-generation master working at the forge today, has added the Hisui, the Hirei, and a Damascus steel A-type. His philosophy: "Cutting well is the baseline. Beyond that: simple and sturdy." — 質実剛健

Forging the Handle

Sharpening the Blade

Notes on use

IMPORTANT: This shear is made of High-Carbon Alloy Steel (Not Stainless Steel). It is exceptionally sharp but prone to rust if not maintained.
Do not twist or lever the blade during a cut.
Handle with care — blade-first drops risk chipping.
For one-handed use only. Right hand.
Designed for branches up to the thickness of a little finger. Use a saw beyond that.
Oil and clean regularly to prevent rust and blade separation.
Do not use on wire, rope, or any non-plant material.
Keep out of reach of children.