[Tobisho] A-type Aogami Steel Pruning Shears 200mm (7.9") Red & Yellow Taped Handle [TBS010302AV]

Forged in two halves. Joined for one purpose. With red and yellow. — Premium Japanese Hand-Forged Pruning Shears

About the Tobisho A-type Series

The A-type and B-type are the two oldest pruning shear forms still made in Yamagata, both predating Tobisho's founding as a pruning shear forge in 1930. Almost every manufacturer who once made an A-type has since switched to full-body forging, where blade and body are shaped from a single piece of steel in one process. Tobisho is, as far as Tetsufuku knows, the only manufacturer in the world still using the original method: a separately forged blade joined to a malleable cast iron body by brass brazing. Daiki Tobitsuka, the fourth-generation master, calls keeping this method alive a matter of pride. The A-type, made this way, carries the history of Japanese pruning shears within it.

The brass-brazed seam where blade meets body may show slight variation from piece to piece: the width of the brass line, small dark specks, or faint grinding marks. These are not defects. Brazing exists to bond blade and handle securely, not for decorative uniformity, and Tobisho does not grind or polish the seam for cosmetic appearance. Each seam is unique because each is brazed and finished by hand.

Tradition here has never meant standing still. More than a quarter century ago, the third generation, Yasuhito Tobitsuka, redesigned the handle from the ground up: a new mold, a more ergonomic shape, easier to grip and less tiring over a long day's work. And because the blade is forged separately from the body, the blade material itself can be freely chosen, a structural freedom unique to the A-type. It was Yasuhito who first put this freedom to use by introducing an Aogami steel edge to the A-type; later, the fourth generation, Daiki Tobitsuka, took it further still with Aogami Damascus.

Tobisho sits in direct lineage with this method. Brazing a blade to a body takes more time and more skill than forging the two as one. Tobisho keeps doing it anyway, one shear at a time.

About Tobisho A-type Aogami Steel Pruning Shears 200mm (7.9") Red & Yellow Taped Handle

This is the A-type 200mm (7.9") with an Aogami steel edge and a Red & Yellow Taped Handle, the combination that tends to go out of stock fastest in the A-type lineup. Right-handed. No left-hand version exists, as no mold for one has ever been made. The vinyl tape also means you never have to grip cold metal on a winter morning.

The blade is quenched and tempered at temperatures suited to Aogami steel, giving it the hardness and toughness needed to cut through living wood. Compared with YCS-3, the feel of a single cut may not differ all that much; Tetsufuku finds the cut slightly smoother, though this varies by hand. Where Aogami steel truly sets itself apart is in how long the edge holds. It resists dulling far longer. That said, sharpening takes patience: chromium and tungsten are added to the steel, making it hard and prone to slipping under the stone, even for someone with the skill to handle it. Even so, an Aogami steel blade carries a presence all its own.

Within the A-type lineup, 225mm sits one size up and 185mm one size down, the latter built differently: a full-body forged exception within an otherwise brazed family. A black-finish version of this same shear is also available.

The A-type has roots in Yamagata's once-thriving sericulture industry and in the fruit farms that have expanded production in recent years. Its high rigidity makes it easy to cut through hard tree species, and its use has since spread among gardeners working with a wide variety of trees. Used by professional gardeners, orchardists, vineyard workers, and serious enthusiasts worldwide.

How to Maintain Your Tobisho Pruning Shears

How do I keep the blade in condition?
Wipe off resin after every use, ideally. Resin buildup gradually forces the blade trajectory outward, the two cutting edges stop meeting cleanly, and the pivot bolt begins to wear along that same outward path, compounding the problem. If wiping after every use isn't practical, clean the blades regularly. Carrying a small cloth and blade cleaner means you can do it on a break.

How do I lubricate the pivot?
Ideally, remove the bolt periodically and pack grease inside, grease holds longer than oil. That said, this requires skill and confidence to do correctly. A practical alternative: one drop of oil on the pivot once a month. It's not the full solution, but it keeps things running smoothly.

Can the shear get wet?
Avoid it where possible, and never leave the shear wet. After working in rain or morning dew, wipe it dry thoroughly. The pivot area retains moisture longest, use a blower or compressed air if you have one. Regular oiling helps here too: a well-oiled blade sheds water rather than holding it.

What if I drop it?
It depends on how and where it lands. A handle-first drop can bend the handle, affecting feel and the locking mechanism. A blade-first drop risks chipping. As a general rule: the sharper the blade, the harder and more brittle the steel, and the thinner the edge. Handle forged Japanese blades accordingly.

Can I sharpen it myself?
Yes, if you understand the blade geometry and have the skill. Sharpening scissors is significantly harder than sharpening knives: you are managing the contact between two blades, and as you sharpen, the blade face recedes, which can cause the edges to lose contact. If you are confident, sharpen only the face of each blade, never the inner flat side. When the blades stop meeting cleanly despite sharpening, that is the point to send it back to the maker. If you are not confident, leave it to a professional. A blade sharpened incorrectly is harder to recover than a dull one. That said: when you reach the point where you can sharpen your own tools, your relationship with them changes entirely.

What if I force it through a branch that's too thick?
Don't. Twisting or levering the shear to force a cut transfers lateral stress directly to the blade, chipping, blade separation, handle damage. Pruning shears, regardless of maker, are not designed for branches thicker than a little finger. That is what a saw is for. The boundary is the thickness of a little finger. Remember it.

About Tobisho: Four Generations of Pruning Shear Hand-Forging

Tobisho has been forging blades in Yamagata since 1804, ten generations of blacksmiths, four of them dedicated to pruning shears. It was Syojiro Tobitsuka, the seventh-generation bladesmith in his family line, who founded Tobisho as a pruning shear forge in 1930, making him the first of four generations dedicated to shears.

Syojiro's shears served both the silkworm farmers already working the region and the orchardists who followed as Yamagata became one of Japan's great fruit-growing prefectures. The tools had to work. His name is still stamped on every Karikomi Shear Tobisho makes.

Generation by generation, the shears got better. What Tobisho is known for today, their heat treatment, their distinctive surface finish, is accumulated experience, made visible.

The late master Yasuhito Tobitsuka, third generation, developed the SR, the Hiryu, and the Asuka, and redesigned the A-type's handle. Daiki Tobitsuka, the fourth-generation master working at the forge today, has added the Hisui, the Hirei, and a Damascus steel A-type. His philosophy: "Cutting well is the baseline. Beyond that: simple and sturdy.", 質実剛健

Video: Forging the Tobisho Pruner Handle

Video: Sharpening the Blade

Notes on use

IMPORTANT: This shear is made of Premium Blade Steel (Not Stainless Steel). It is exceptionally sharp but prone to rust if not maintained.
Do not twist or lever the blade during a cut.
Handle with care, blade-first drops risk chipping.
For one-handed use only. Right hand.
Designed for branches up to the thickness of a little finger. Use a saw beyond that.
Oil and clean regularly to prevent rust and blade separation.
Do not use on wire, rope, or any non-plant material.
Keep out of reach of children.

💬 Story of This Model - By Shop Manager (Part 4 of 5)

Topic: The hidden history behind the "New A-type" label.

Hiroshi Urata

Our long-time customers might remember seeing "New A-type" written on Tobisho's official website for years. Yasuhito-san had introduced a completely new die, making a bold design change to create a more ergonomic, user-friendly shape. Altering a traditional form takes immense courage in this heritage craft, which is why they kept proudly displaying the word "New." What's funny, now that I can share it, is that when Tetsufuku opened in 2012, Yasuhito-san quietly told me with a laugh, "To be honest, it's easily been over ten years since we changed it to the New version."

⏪ Part 3 (Aogami Black) Continue to Part 5: A-type Aogami Damascus 200mm (7.9") ➔