[Tobisho] Left-Handed Asuka Pruning Shears 195mm (7.7") [TBS011201L]

The pruner you forget you own. Until you reach for it. For the left hand. — Premium Japanese Hand-Forged Pruning Shears

About the Tobisho Asuka & Hiryu Series

Both the Asuka and the Hiryu trace back to the Tsugaru-type apple pruning shear, developed in Aomori Prefecture. Tobisho once made a straight-handled shear of its own in that same tradition, known simply as the Tsugaru-type, similar in silhouette to what would become the Asuka and Hiryu. That line was eventually consolidated into the Asuka.

The idea that led to the Hiryu came from an apple shear brought in for repair. Yasuhito Tobitsuka, Tobisho's third-generation master, noticed that its blades didn't touch as they cut. "I couldn't tell whether they were built that way from the start, or had simply worn down to that point through use," he said, "since some Tsugaru-type shears already had blades that didn't touch." That observation became the starting point for a shear built around reducing resistance wherever possible. What began as a single idea grew, over time, into a shear shaped entirely around the hand holding it.

The Asuka shares the same body as the Hiryu, forged full-body in Yamagata, but its blades are finished to meet and slide against each other, cutting the way an ordinary pair of shears does. The Hiryu's blades are shaped, and finished with further refinements, so that they never touch at all.

About Tobisho Asuka Pruning Shears 195mm (7.7")

The Asuka 195mm (7.7") Left-Handed is built specifically for left-handed use, not simply mirrored from the right-handed model. Steel: YCS-3, full-body forged in Yamagata, Japan.

Unlike the Hiryu, the Asuka's blades meet and slide against each other in the way most pruning shears do. It doesn't chase a single standout trait; it simply performs well across the board, cutting cleanly, holding up over long days, and staying comfortable in the hand. I've heard from gardeners prone to tendonitis, or on the edge of it, that the Asuka is often the shear they end up reaching for. A right-handed version is also available.

The Asuka has roots in Yamagata's apple-growing tradition and has since spread to a broader range of pruning work. Used by professional gardeners, orchardists, vineyard workers, and serious enthusiasts worldwide.

How to Maintain Your Tobisho Pruning Shears

How do I keep the blade in condition?
Wipe off resin after every use, ideally. Resin buildup gradually forces the blade trajectory outward, the two cutting edges stop meeting cleanly, and the pivot bolt begins to wear along that same outward path, compounding the problem. If wiping after every use isn't practical, clean the blades regularly. Carrying a small cloth and blade cleaner means you can do it on a break.

How do I lubricate the pivot?
Ideally, remove the bolt periodically and pack grease inside, grease holds longer than oil. That said, this requires skill and confidence to do correctly. A practical alternative: one drop of oil on the pivot once a month. It's not the full solution, but it keeps things running smoothly.

Can the shear get wet?
Avoid it where possible, and never leave the shear wet. After working in rain or morning dew, wipe it dry thoroughly. The pivot area retains moisture longest, use a blower or compressed air if you have one. Regular oiling helps here too: a well-oiled blade sheds water rather than holding it.

What if I drop it?
It depends on how and where it lands. A handle-first drop can bend the handle, affecting feel and the locking mechanism. A blade-first drop risks chipping. As a general rule: the sharper the blade, the harder and more brittle the steel, and the thinner the edge. Handle forged Japanese blades accordingly.

Can I sharpen it myself?
Yes, if you understand the blade geometry and have the skill. Sharpening scissors is significantly harder than sharpening knives: you are managing the contact between two blades, and as you sharpen, the blade face recedes, which can cause the edges to lose contact. If you are confident, sharpen only the face of each blade, never the inner flat side. When the blades stop meeting cleanly despite sharpening, that is the point to send it back to the maker. If you are not confident, leave it to a professional. A blade sharpened incorrectly is harder to recover than a dull one. That said: when you reach the point where you can sharpen your own tools, your relationship with them changes entirely.

What if I force it through a branch that's too thick?
Don't. Twisting or levering the shear to force a cut transfers lateral stress directly to the blade, chipping, blade separation, handle damage. Pruning shears, regardless of maker, are not designed for branches thicker than a little finger. That is what a saw is for. The boundary is the thickness of a little finger. Remember it.

About Tobisho: Four Generations of Pruning Shear Hand-Forging

Tobisho has been forging blades in Yamagata since 1804, ten generations of blacksmiths, four of them dedicated to pruning shears. It was Syojiro Tobitsuka, the seventh-generation bladesmith in his family line, who founded Tobisho as a pruning shear forge in 1930, making him the first of four generations dedicated to shears.

Syojiro's shears served both the silkworm farmers already working the region and the orchardists who followed as Yamagata became one of Japan's great fruit-growing prefectures. The tools had to work. His name is still stamped on every Karikomi Shear Tobisho makes.

Generation by generation, the shears got better. What Tobisho is known for today, their heat treatment, their distinctive surface finish, is accumulated experience, made visible.

The late master Yasuhito Tobitsuka, third generation, developed the SR, the Hiryu, and the Asuka, and redesigned the A-type's handle. Daiki Tobitsuka, the fourth-generation master working at the forge today, has added the Hisui, the Hirei, and a Damascus steel A-type. His philosophy: "Cutting well is the baseline. Beyond that: simple and sturdy.", 質実剛健

Video: Forging the Tobisho Pruner Handle

Video: Sharpening the Blade

Notes on use

IMPORTANT: This shear is made of High-Carbon Alloy Steel (Not Stainless Steel). It is exceptionally sharp but prone to rust if not maintained.
Do not twist or lever the blade during a cut.
Handle with care, blade-first drops risk chipping.
For one-handed use only. Left hand.
Designed for branches up to the thickness of a little finger. Use a saw beyond that.
Oil and clean regularly to prevent rust and blade separation.
Do not use on wire, rope, or any non-plant material.
Keep out of reach of children.

💬 Story of This Model - By Shop Manager (Part 2 of 5)

Topic: The question I couldn't answer, even after asking the man who made it.

Hiroshi Urata

For a long time, I kept asking myself: what's actually different between the Hiryu and the Asuka? I was fortunate enough to meet Yasuhito Tobitsuka himself early on and ask him directly, and even then, I didn't fully get it. What I did come away understanding was that the Asuka's blades meet and slide against each other, just like an ordinary pair of shears. The Hiryu was harder to picture. He described it something like, "the cutting blade moves, well, like a screw," and I still couldn't quite see it in my head.

➔ Continue to Part 3: Hiryu 190mm (7.5")