[Tobisho] Hiryu Pruning Shears 190mm (7.5") [TBS011301]

The edges never meet. That's the point. — Premium Japanese Hand-Forged Pruning Shears

About the Tobisho Asuka & Hiryu Series

Both the Asuka and the Hiryu trace back to the Tsugaru-type apple pruning shear, developed in Aomori Prefecture. Tobisho once made a straight-handled shear of its own in that same tradition, known simply as the Tsugaru-type, similar in silhouette to what would become the Asuka and Hiryu. That line was eventually consolidated into the Asuka.

The idea that led to the Hiryu came from an apple shear brought in for repair. Yasuhito Tobitsuka, Tobisho's third-generation master, noticed that its blades didn't touch as they cut. "I couldn't tell whether they were built that way from the start, or had simply worn down to that point through use," he said, "since some Tsugaru-type shears already had blades that didn't touch." That observation became the starting point for a shear built around reducing resistance wherever possible. What began as a single idea grew, over time, into a shear shaped entirely around the hand holding it.

The Asuka shares the same body as the Hiryu, forged full-body in Yamagata, but its blades are finished to meet and slide against each other, cutting the way an ordinary pair of shears does. The Hiryu's blades are shaped, and finished with further refinements, so that they never touch at all.

The Hiryu also has dedicated grease holes built into the body near the pivot. Its blade is ground slightly thinner than the Asuka's, and the back-bevel (urasuki) is set differently as well.

About Tobisho Hiryu Pruning Shears 190mm (7.5")

The Hiryu 190mm (7.5") is right-handed only. Steel: YCS-3, full-body forged in Yamagata, Japan.

The Hiryu's defining feature is that its two blades never touch. A branch is cut by a drawing, circular motion of the blade rather than a direct pinch. It's easy to overlook, but this is also why the receiving blade holds a branch far more securely than on most pruning shears, gripping and cradling it in place. Because the blades never touch, friction drops substantially, and the thin, mirror-polished finish of the blade reduces resistance even further. The saving on any single cut is small, but multiply it across the hundreds of cuts in a day's pruning, and that accumulation makes a real difference to the hand. This is why gardeners with tendonitis, or on the edge of it, remain such loyal users of the Hiryu.

This construction comes with a trade-off. Because the blades don't touch, thin or soft materials, paper, rope, and the like, won't cut cleanly; they simply bend and fold between the blades instead. The Hiryu is built specifically for cutting hard wooden branches with a thin, razor-sharp edge, not for general-purpose cutting.

Four grease holes are set around the pivot screw, keeping the moving parts continuously lubricated. This also slows wear on the screw itself, keeping play from developing over years of use. Inside the handle are two springs: one absorbs the shock at the end of a cut, and the other helps the handle spring back open smoothly. No bolt is visible on the back of the shear, this is intentional, reducing the shear's overall thickness so it slips more easily into dense, tangled branches. The screw is cut in opposing directions on each side, so the two halves can't come apart.

The Hiryu has roots in Yamagata's apple-growing tradition and has since spread to a broader range of pruning work. Used by professional gardeners, orchardists, vineyard workers, and serious enthusiasts worldwide. A left-handed version and the Hiryu Alpha, with a different grip shape, are also available.

How to Maintain Your Tobisho Pruning Shears

Why won't it cut rope or paper?
That's expected with the Hiryu. It's built specifically for materials with the hardness and thickness of a branch. Because there's a gap between the blades, soft or thin materials won't cut, and that isn't a defect or a fault.

How do I keep the blade in condition?
Wipe off resin after every use, ideally. Resin buildup gradually forces the blade trajectory outward, the two cutting edges stop meeting cleanly, and the pivot bolt begins to wear along that same outward path, compounding the problem. If wiping after every use isn't practical, clean the blades regularly. Carrying a small cloth and blade cleaner means you can do it on a break.

How do I lubricate the pivot?
The Hiryu has built-in grease holes, so refill them with grease periodically through those. Grease holds longer than oil. If refilling isn't practical, a workable alternative is one drop of oil on the pivot once a month. It's not the full solution, but it keeps things running smoothly.

Can the shear get wet?
Avoid it where possible, and never leave the shear wet. After working in rain or morning dew, wipe it dry thoroughly. The pivot area retains moisture longest, use a blower or compressed air if you have one. Regular oiling helps here too: a well-oiled blade sheds water rather than holding it.

What if I drop it?
It depends on how and where it lands. A handle-first drop can bend the handle, affecting feel and the locking mechanism. A blade-first drop risks chipping. As a general rule: the sharper the blade, the harder and more brittle the steel, and the thinner the edge. Handle forged Japanese blades accordingly.

Can I sharpen it myself?
The Hiryu's blade is ground to a shape unlike a standard pruning shear, so we don't recommend sharpening it yourself. Because the blades are built never to touch, even a small sharpening error can throw off the cutting performance and balance significantly. If you notice the cutting performance declining, we'd recommend sending it to the maker instead.

What if I force it through a branch that's too thick?
Don't. Twisting or levering the shear to force a cut transfers lateral stress directly to the blade, chipping, blade separation, handle damage. Pruning shears, regardless of maker, are not designed for branches thicker than a little finger. That is what a saw is for. The boundary is the thickness of a little finger. Remember it.

About Tobisho: Four Generations of Pruning Shear Hand-Forging

Tobisho has been forging blades in Yamagata since 1804, ten generations of blacksmiths, four of them dedicated to pruning shears. It was Syojiro Tobitsuka, the seventh-generation bladesmith in his family line, who founded Tobisho as a pruning shear forge in 1930, making him the first of four generations dedicated to shears.

Syojiro's shears served both the silkworm farmers already working the region and the orchardists who followed as Yamagata became one of Japan's great fruit-growing prefectures. The tools had to work. His name is still stamped on every Karikomi Shear Tobisho makes.

Generation by generation, the shears got better. What Tobisho is known for today, their heat treatment, their distinctive surface finish, is accumulated experience, made visible.

The late master Yasuhito Tobitsuka, third generation, developed the SR, the Hiryu, and the Asuka, and redesigned the A-type's handle. Daiki Tobitsuka, the fourth-generation master working at the forge today, has added the Hisui, the Hirei, and a Damascus steel A-type. His philosophy: "Cutting well is the baseline. Beyond that: simple and sturdy.", 質実剛健

Forging the Handle

Sharpening the Blade

Notes on use

IMPORTANT: This shear is made of High-Carbon Alloy Steel (Not Stainless Steel). It is exceptionally sharp but prone to rust if not maintained.
This shear will not cut thin or soft materials. Do not attempt to force it. Doing so leads directly to damage. For example, forcing it through rope won't cut the rope; instead, the rope becomes wedged between the receiving and cutting blades. That wedging pushes the blades apart and can visibly widen the gap between them.
Do not twist or lever the blade during a cut.
Handle with care, blade-first drops risk chipping.
For one-handed use only. Right hand.
Designed for branches up to the thickness of a little finger. Use a saw beyond that.
Oil and clean regularly to prevent rust and blade separation.
Keep out of reach of children.

💬 Story of This Model - By Shop Manager (Part 3 of 5)

Topic: What less resistance really means over a full day.

Hiroshi Urata

What I did understand, even early on, was this: because the Hiryu's blades never touch, there's less resistance. Add to that a thin, mirror-polished blade, and the resistance drops even further. Multiply that small reduction across a full day of pruning, and the cumulative relief on the hand becomes real. It wasn't until Tobisho was featured in the magazine NIWA, in January 2020, that I finally understood the fuller picture, through a proper interview rather than a quick shop-floor conversation.

➔ Continue to Part 4: Hiryu Alpha 190mm (7.5")