[Tobisho] Full-Body Forged A-type Pruning Shears 185mm (7.3") Red & Yellow Taped Handle [TBS010303V]

Two ways to forge a shear. This is the other one. With red and yellow. — Premium Japanese Hand-Forged Pruning Shears

About the Tobisho A-type Series

The A-type is one of the two oldest pruning shear forms still made in Yamagata, predating Tobisho's founding as a pruning shear forge in 1930. Tobisho makes it two ways: forged as one continuous piece from tip to handle, and forged as a separate blade joined to a malleable cast iron body by brass brazing. Both are genuine A-types. Neither is a substitute for the other.

At Tetsufuku, the 225mm and 200mm A-types are the brass-brazed version; the 185mm is the full-body forged version, one piece of steel shaped as blade and handle together, with no seam anywhere in it. Tobisho does also forge a full-body 200mm A-type on the same principle, though Tetsufuku does not currently carry that size. At 185mm, forging the whole shear as one piece is simply the way it has always been done.

Tobisho sits in direct lineage with this way of working, one piece of steel, shaped whole, still forged and finished by hand at 185mm today.

About Tobisho A-type Pruning Shears 185mm (7.3")

The A-type 185mm (7.3") Red & Yellow Taped Handle is right-handed only, weighing approximately 215g. Steel: Premium Blade Steel, Tobisho's own undisclosed grade, forged as a single integral piece with the handle. The specific grade is not disclosed by Tobisho, a deliberate choice that reflects their confidence in the result over the specification.

Forged whole, nothing bonded and nothing joined, the 185mm is the smallest of the A-type line and the lightest in the hand. This product is the Red & Yellow Taped Handle version; a black-finish version is also available.

The A-type has roots in Yamagata's once-thriving sericulture industry and in the fruit farms that have expanded production in recent years. Its high rigidity makes it easy to cut through hard tree species, and its use has since spread among gardeners working with a wide variety of trees. Used by professional gardeners, orchardists, vineyard workers, and serious enthusiasts worldwide.

How to Maintain Your Tobisho Pruning Shears

How do I keep the blade in condition?
Wipe off resin after every use, ideally. Resin buildup gradually forces the blade trajectory outward, the two cutting edges stop meeting cleanly, and the pivot bolt begins to wear along that same outward path, compounding the problem. If wiping after every use isn't practical, clean the blades regularly. Carrying a small cloth and blade cleaner means you can do it on a break.

How do I lubricate the pivot?
Ideally, remove the bolt periodically and pack grease inside, grease holds longer than oil. That said, this requires skill and confidence to do correctly. A practical alternative: one drop of oil on the pivot once a month. It's not the full solution, but it keeps things running smoothly.

Can the shear get wet?
Avoid it where possible, and never leave the shear wet. After working in rain or morning dew, wipe it dry thoroughly. The pivot area retains moisture longest, use a blower or compressed air if you have one. Regular oiling helps here too: a well-oiled blade sheds water rather than holding it.

What if I drop it?
It depends on how and where it lands. A handle-first drop can bend the handle, affecting feel and the locking mechanism. A blade-first drop risks chipping. As a general rule: the sharper the blade, the harder and more brittle the steel, and the thinner the edge. Handle forged Japanese blades accordingly.

Can I sharpen it myself?
Yes, if you understand the blade geometry and have the skill. Sharpening scissors is significantly harder than sharpening knives: you are managing the contact between two blades, and as you sharpen, the blade face recedes, which can cause the edges to lose contact. If you are confident, sharpen only the face of each blade, never the inner flat side. When the blades stop meeting cleanly despite sharpening, that is the point to send it back to the maker. If you are not confident, leave it to a professional. A blade sharpened incorrectly is harder to recover than a dull one. That said: when you reach the point where you can sharpen your own tools, your relationship with them changes entirely.

What if I force it through a branch that's too thick?
Don't. Twisting or levering the shear to force a cut transfers lateral stress directly to the blade, chipping, blade separation, handle damage. Pruning shears, regardless of maker, are not designed for branches thicker than a little finger. That is what a saw is for. The boundary is the thickness of a little finger. Remember it.

About Tobisho: Four Generations of Pruning Shear Hand-Forging

Tobisho has been forging blades in Yamagata since 1804, ten generations of blacksmiths, four of them dedicated to pruning shears. It was Syojiro Tobitsuka, the seventh-generation bladesmith in his family line, who founded Tobisho as a pruning shear forge in 1930, making him the first of four generations dedicated to shears.

Syojiro's shears served both the silkworm farmers already working the region and the orchardists who followed as Yamagata became one of Japan's great fruit-growing prefectures. The tools had to work. His name is still stamped on every Karikomi Shear Tobisho makes.

Generation by generation, the shears got better. What Tobisho is known for today, their heat treatment, their distinctive surface finish, is accumulated experience, made visible.

The late master Yasuhito Tobitsuka, third generation, developed the SR, the Hiryu, and the Asuka, and redesigned the A-type's handle. Daiki Tobitsuka, the fourth-generation master working at the forge today, has added the Hisui, the Hirei, and a Damascus steel A-type. His philosophy: "Cutting well is the baseline. Beyond that: simple and sturdy.", 質実剛健

Video: Forging the Tobisho Pruner Handle

Video: Sharpening the Blade

Notes on use

IMPORTANT: This shear is made of Premium Blade Steel (Not Stainless Steel). It is exceptionally sharp but prone to rust if not maintained.
Do not twist or lever the blade during a cut.
Handle with care, blade-first drops risk chipping.
For one-handed use only. Right hand.
Designed for branches up to the thickness of a little finger. Use a saw beyond that.
Oil and clean regularly to prevent rust and blade separation.
Do not use on wire, rope, or any non-plant material.
Keep out of reach of children.

💬 Story of This Model - By Shop Manager (Part 2 of 2)

Topic: Lighter than expected, and why that's not a shortcoming.

Hiroshi Urata

This is entirely my own impression, but the first time I held the A-type 185mm, it felt more delicate than I expected. It made me realize just how dramatic Yasuhito Tobitsuka's mold redesign really was. Does that make this full-body forged 185mm inferior in any way? Not at all. It sits in the hand with a remarkably natural feel, almost as if it becomes part of your own body. If you're looking for a smaller pruning shear, I'd suggest choosing between the A-type and B-type based on how the weight balance and blade angle feel in your own hand.

➔ Return to Part 1 (Black Finish)